November 20 – Football (aka Soccer)

After trips all over the metropolis, I decided to settle close to home.  I knew that there was a football match at the Tianhe Sports Centre, a short walk away from my house. I had heard that most soccer tickets were pretty easy to get, unless China was playing of course. Just to prepare myself for the game, and to decide on a team to cheer for, I checked out who was playing.

It was the Women’s Semi-final. Korea vs. Korea.

After looking that up, I got pretty darned excited, I mean, how often do you get to see two countries at war play a sport against one another? What would the crowd be like? How would the players react?

I met up with some friends and headed on over to the venue. Right after showing up we find someone trying to sell tickets. After a bit of haggling we end up paying 80RMB for the 50 kuai tickets. Not terrible, but we probably could have done better.

After we get into the stadium and find some seats, the game was maybe 5 minutes in. Looking down at the pitch, we can see that the white team was clearly dominating the red team. Logically, we assume that the white team is the South Koreans, since they are known for having a much stronger squad.

Circled: North Korea

The stadium was at about two-thirds capacity, with the side we were seated at (camera side) having the majority of people. Across the field there was a small North Korean cheering section with flags and everything. I noticed that nobody else was sitting around them. I couldn’t help but wonder if it were the athletes, and everyone else was kept away.

As the game went on, the white team continued to dominate.  Eventually, as the first half neared an end, they finally scored. I jumped for joy, along with the rest of the crowd. Then I looked at the scoreboard PRK: 1 KOR: 0.

I had spent the whole first half cheering for the Evil Korea.

Lesson learned, GO RED!!!!

The second half was a bit more even, with the white (note to self: North Korea) dominating most of the play. Eventually though, as time dwindled down, the red (note to self: SOUTH Korea) tied it up.

I was a little disappointed by this time that the crowd was mostly Chinese. There are a lot of Koreans in Guangzhou, and I was hoping that they would have filled the stadium. The spectators were pretty respectful, giving even cheers for both sides. Even though I expected them to be more in favour of the North, it didn’t really pan out that way.

The game went into extra time, and to my surprise, the North Korean team (in white) scored twice late in the frame to win the game, much to the delight of the bizarre North Korean cheering section across the field from us.

As we left, we noticed several nice buses surrounded by a military presence, complete with a tank. As much as I wanted to take a picture, I thought better of that. While there was security at all of the events, there wasn’t that much anywhere else. Did they expect the Korean teams to take it out of hand? Was it there to escort the North Koreans back? Or was it just because it was Saturday night? I really have no idea, and I didn’t want to stop to ask these questions.

November 21 – Cricket

After getting tickets from scalpers, friends of friends, or students, it was about time that we got tickets legally. About a week before, my girlfriend and I went to the ICBC Bank to get tickets. After standing in line for tickets, we were told that we needed an ICBC account, so after an hour of waiting and signing things, and getting my passport copied down, I got one and we purchased some tickets. It really was a painful process that reminded me of signing up for a bank account with China Merchant’s just to go to the Expo.  Does this make sense to anyone else out there?

…and rant over. Back to the games!

After several great experiences, and minimal problems, it was about time that our luck ran out. After consulting a map, it seemed like cricket wouldn’t be that difficult to get to. Sure it was far away, but Guangzhou’s subway system is good enough.  Long story short: I was wrong; horribly, horribly wrong.

We had to take the subway, and then a bus, and then walk, and then wait. None of the volunteers were all that knowledgeable (shocking, since they were so great for the other events), and the transit links were worse.

We finally got to the venue, at 9:40 for a 9:30 start. While it sucks being late, one of the advantages is that usually everyone else has already arrived, and the lines are easier to get through.  This was not one of those times. Everyone else had arrived late as well.

The line to get into the stadium was super long, super slow moving, and super pushy.

When we got up to the front, my girlfriend asked one of the volunteers, why it was taking so long. He answer that “We didn’t think cricket would be so popular, and everyone came at once!”.

Either Cricket Fever is going to sweep China in the near future, or the tickets were given away for free, you decide!

I had to state the obvious, but people usually come to sporting events at once.  You know, when the event starts.

We finally got in, were seated under the hot sun, and joined the rest of the crowd an hour after the event started.

Now I am sure that cricket is a great and elegant game. I am sure that there is a great deal of strategy, and some excellent athleticism involved. But I just don’t get it. I had the game roughly explained to me before hand, but I was still confused. And apparently I wasn’t alone. I’m sure that a cricket purist would have been embarrassed by the crowds lack of knowledge, and if that is any of you out there, I’m sorry, but I just didn’t get the game.

We left after a few hours to go grab some food, and proceed to our next event of the day. Yet another English sport that North Americans have changed into a game that they call their own…

November 21 – Rugby

Now this was more like it!

I had seen Rugby 7s on TV a few years ago, but I didn’t really understand it. Seven on a side, two seven minute halves, sure makes for an exciting and fast paced game! Our tickets were good for a total of nine matches on the opening day of the tournament.

There were so many games, both mens and women’s that I honestly am struggling to remember the individual scores. However, there was one pretty central theme to the games: lop-sided scores. One of the common themes for international tournaments is that the opening games are usually the best teams against the worst teams, to serve as a bit of a warm-up for everyone (e.g. Brazil opening the World Cup against North Korea, or Canada opening the Winter Olympic Ice Hockey against Norway).

The games were fast and furious, but more often than not ended up with scores of fifty-something to zero.

Energized and exhausted, we decided to take the subway back to civilization. Apparently, everyone in the giant rugby stadium had the same idea. The subway was crowded, and I don’t just mean typical Chinese volume, I mean insane and sardineesque.

For safety reasons, they held people upstairs before allowing them to go down to the train platforms. Now of course, people were pushing and shoving, in ways that I am sure I don’t need to explain to anyone who has spent anytime in the Middle Kingdom.

The security guard yelled something and all that I could make out was “waiguoren“. My girlfriend explained that he said something to the effect of “Don’t push, there are foreigners here. Do you want them to see you acting like this?”.

We went down to the trains in an orderly fashion.

November 24 – Water Polo

I wish that I had some grand story to tell for my final event, but sadly I don’t. Water Polo was simply fantastic, they are athletes of the highest caliber.

The semi-final match between China and South Korea was a lot of fun. China utterly humiliated their opponents, winning 22-7, sending the fans home happy.

I tried to cheer, I tried to get into it, but the fact remained. I was just too damn tired.

Good thing the Games won’t happen for another 4 years, I don’t think that I have the energy for it to take place any sooner.

Asian Games: Coming to a Super Nova Near You!

The 16th Asiad is winding down here in Guangzhou. I’ll be honest, first I was excited about the event, then angry at all the construction, then angrier that I couldn’t get tickets, then excited again, then confused, then hungry, and finally back to excited. Now I find myself sad that they will be ending soon, and plotting my trip to Korea for the 2014 version of the event!  I was lucky enough to take in six and a half events over the past two weeks.

For all the issues they had planning, and running this event. I can say from my own experiences as a spectator, it was fantastic, and the city and country should be pretty darned proud.

What experiences you ask? Well just read on to find out!

November 16 – Hockey

It all started innocently enough. One of my students asked me if I liked hockey. Being a red and white blooded Canadian I said “Of course!”, thinking he was talking about my countries national frozen sport. He then tells me that he has two tickets to see hockey that night that he couldn’t use, since his mom had to go out of town, so he offers them to me. I hurriedly accept and reimburse him for the tickets, even though he tries to refuse the money. Looking at the tickets, I realize that he meant field hockey, which is something that I had actually never seen played before. Nonetheless I accept.

That evening, my girlfriend and I arrive to the venue with anticipation, unsure as to what to expect exactly. Just that day I had read on BBC that the venues were both sold out and empty. The Aoti Field Hockey Stadium was somewhere in between the two extremes. There was a respectable crowd, but certainly room for more spectators. After arriving five minutes late, we see that the score is 2-0 for South Korea leading Oman. Apparently South Korea’s team is good, who knew?

Apparently hockey can be played on the Field these days...

A few spectators sit behind us and talk a little loudly in Chinese. My girlfriend starts to laugh. She tells me that one of them said after looking at the Omani team “I didn’t think that there were black people in Asian”. To which the other replied “No stupid, they’re Indian”. Had I understood I would have added “Warmer…warmer…”

Volunteer’s start to address the crowd and lead cheers for both countries. South Korea is the only one to respond, as they run up the score. With the score 8-0 in the dying minutes the crowd gains new life. Oman made a few dashes towards the goal, and the crowd loved it. The spectators drew incredibly raucous as Oman pressed on making last shots. The clocked ticked down as another Omani chance was stifled, much to the chagrin of everyone not Korean, Oman loses 8-0.

As we prepare to leave, the announcer comes on and tells us that in half an hour the second game featuring China and Singapore will start. Unsure what to do, we stay still, figuring that someone would tell us to leave if we had to. Nobody came, and the majority of spectators stayed. Apparently we had tickets to a double header.

With China on the field, there was no split cheering, and no hopes for the underdog to score a goal. Everyone was all PRC, and I loved it. The first half went by with no goals, but a ton of “Jia Yo’s”. The five rams came out and danced, but everyone wanted blood, or at least a goal.

Eventually the patience of the crowd paid off and the stands erupted when China scored the first of the game. Cheers grew louder as play got fiercer. China eventually added another to send everyone home happy with a 2-0 win. As the crowds poured out I wondered how many fans understood the rules of the game (note: I sure didn’t), but I certainly didn’t wonder how many people enjoyed it.

I was reminded of an old joke I have had for almost 15 years with my friend Troy. He and I are both huge hockey fans and it has been our main topic of conversation for the duration of our friendship. Whenever talks switch to another sport like basketball, one of us always asks “Do you know what would make [Sport X] better?” to which the other replies “If it were hockey”. Field hockey may be better to me if it were on ice, but it was still pretty darned great.

November 17 – Artistic Gymnastics

The first day did it. We had Asian Games fever. The only prescription? More tickets!!

For Reference: Panyu is somewhere to the East of Mordor on this map - photo by Anthony Forester

Looking at the schedule, Gymnastics was the one to go to next. While I’m impressed with the art and athleticism of the sport, it has never really done it for me on a wider scale. My other half on the other hand, loves it. When she found out about the Asian Games, that was the one thing that she wanted to see. Being the loving man that I am, I wouldn’t let a simple thing like not having tickets, or having to go all the way to Panyu get in my way of giving her what she wanted.

We make the lonnnnnnnnnnnnnnng trek out to Panyu in an attempt to scalp some tickets. I had read that it wasn’t that difficult, and many people were selling some tickets at cost. After looking up that the tickets for Gymnastics were 200RMB, I figure that this should be no problem, right?

Well we show up on the look out for the seedy characters who have tickets to move. Things start off well as we get off the metro. Someone immediately tries to sell us tickets for 810RMB each. Not bad, just a 305% markup, comparable to the Pearl Market in Beijing. Undeterred we press on, finding the clear “seedy corner” of the area, where we get offered tickets on a bi-minutely basis.

Sadly though, the prices only go up, peaking at around 1000RMB per ticket, to which I had an inappropriate two word reply. We tried to get them to lower the costs, but to no avail. They went as low as 600RMB, but it was after the event started, and they said “If we promised that, they’d look for it.”.

Defeated, we made the long trek back to civilization and called it a night.

November 20 – Sepatakraw

Had you asked me what sepatakraw was two weeks ago I would have answered either “A character from Harry Potter” or “Your mom’s a sepatakraw”. Now I would answer it with “The Superbowl meets Christmas”!

Like most stories, this one starts with “A Friend of a Friend”. See, a friend of my friend was working as a volunteer for the Asian Games and had two free tickets to see the Thai sport, which is best described as “volleyball with feet”. Now my friend, Ryan (not the one associated with this site, I do have friends not on the internet) had two tickets, but there was a problem, nine of us wanted to go.

We arrived, thinking that we could scalp some tickets. We failed last time, so why not try again? Surely it was possible! Little did we realize that a very sizable Thai population showed up to watch their women’s team take on the Chinese in a Gold Medal showdown. Tickets were unavailable.

But non-internet-Ryan went out and asked his friends for more tickets. It didn’t look good, so this Ryan and another guy went in. Then after a tense few minutes, more tickets surfaced, and eventually we were all allowed in. My ticket was one step above being scribbled on a napkin, but it did the trick.

What followed was perhaps the most intense and exciting few hours I’ve ever spent.

We ended up seated in the Thai cheering section. While it felt strange to cheer against the country that I live in, it would have felt weirder to cheer against the people I was surrounded by. I’ve been to Thailand a few times, and loved it, so why not?

He can never trim his mustache, then he'd have to make a new four headed mask

The Thai’s took to us just as much as we took to them. The invited us to join every cheer, and dance along with them after every point. Like a crazy college game in North America, a few Thai spectators were dressed up. One had a wat on his head, one was a one man band, and one had fashioned a four headed hat so he could watch the game no matter which way he turned.

What struck me the most was how different the cheering styles of the Thai and Chinese spectators was. The Chinese all chanted in unison, while the Thais would play songs and dance and chant very freely and loosely, but will with collective joy whenever Thailand scored a point.

As the game wore on, I grew more and more excited. As Thailand was closing out the game, I had a volunteer tap me on the shoulder.

JIA YO!!!!

“Excuse me, where are you from?” She asked

“Canada” I replied

“Then why are you cheering for Thailand?”

“Because that’s were the seats were”

Just saying it out loud made me feel kind of silly, but apparently it satisfied her. All silliness went away a few minutes later when the Thai national anthem started to celebrate their Gold Medal. Although I had no reason to be, I sure was proud.

My guest today, Sara is a fellow inhabitant of the great City of Five Rams. Sara Jaaksola always had a dream about visiting China. But only in February 2010 she found the way to make it true and is now enjoyning her life in Guangzhou. In her blog, Living A Dream In China, she writes about her life, experiences and studies in this amazing country.

In less than 2 weeks Guangzhou plays host to the Asian Games. Given we both have front row seats to the construction and hype, it seems like a pretty logical talking point. So, join us today for Fact or Fiction XI: Let the Games Begin!!!

1. Guangzhou will be ready for the Asian Games.

Glen: FACT

New Delhi this is not! I realize that there is still some construction going on, when it should have finished September 30th. However, I recall people having similar concerns back in 2008 in Beijing, but they not only finished everything, but exceeded expectations — expect Guangzhou to do the same.

Sara: FACT
The Asian Games are the number one thing in Guangzhou right now. I am sure that the city will do anything to finish renovations and buldings on time. There seems to be a lot of work still needed to be done, but I am convinced that Chinese people can do miracles when it is about giving face to the city and the whole country.

So far so good! Boy will we ever be embarassed if this turns into New Delhi 2.0! 1 for 1

2. Guangzhou will become more of a tourist destination after the Asian Games.

Glen: FICTION

As much as I would love to see this city become a glamorous tourist destination, I just don’t see that happening. The Asian Games are hardly the Olympics or Expo, and the Tianhe Sports Complex is hardly the Birds Nest or the China Pavilion. Beijing and Shanghai both attracted a huge amount of foreign visitors for their big events, and I just don’t see Guangzhou doing the same. I think that the vast majority of spectators to the events will be Chinese nationals or expats living in the Pearl River Delta. Both of which already come to Guangzhou as it is.

Sara: FICTION

Asian Games will surely attract a lot of Asian tourists and the city will be like a beehive in November. But to become a major tourist spot Guangzhou would need more. Beijing has its cultural sites and Shanghai is a modern metropolis. But Guangzhou is still more the factory of the world than an appealing tourist destination.

So I guess we won’t be seeing more visitors, maybe we like it that way! 2 for 2.

3. The physical changes to the city have been mostly positive.

Glen: FACT

The first time I came to visit GZ was in January 2010 when the construction was well underway. Since then, there have been new museums, subway lines, apartment buildings, and great restaurants opened. I’m very excited to see this place after the last bits of construction are done. I remember being in awe of Shanghai’s pre- and post-Expo transformation, and I’m excited to see it here.

Sara: FACT

Changes seem to be mostly positive. The public transport has improved a lot and will be free during the games. New roads have been built and older ones renovated. But there are also downsides coming along the Games. One of the stadiums is located in the University Town and the villages on the island have been almost completely surrounded with ugly looking walls. The people living there are greatly dissapointed with this renewal.

Continues to look great. Time to switch things up. 3 for 3

4. Guangzhou will host another major international event (e.g. Olympics, Expo) in the near future.

Sara: FICTION

After Asian Games the second biggest event might be the Canton Fair that is held every spring and fall. But usually a same city doesn’t hold many Olympic-scale events in a short time span. First it was Beijing, then Shanghai and now Guangzhou. I think next time it will be some other city’s turn.

Glen: FICTION

Yeah I totally agree. Guangzhou is a great place for an upper-medium sized event like the Asian Games, but it may not have the infastructure or global recognition to handle something like Beijing and Shanghai have. Were I a betting man, I would think that the next major event in China would be a Winter Games (not necessarily the Olympics mind you) in Haerbin, or they’ll put something else in Beijing. Sadly, we’ve got to go to the back of the line now.

And we keep on rolling. 4 for 4. Can this be the first ever perfect score?

5. The Asian Games will have the same impact on Guangzhou that the Olympics had on Beijing or the Expo had on Shanghai.

Sara: FACT

Even with the concerns and negative issues, the Beijing Olumpics gave a lot of face to China and I am sure the Asian Games will do the same to Guangzhou. The city is doing it’s best and through volunteers a leafleft was delivered to every household in order to instruct people on how to behave during the games. I think the biggest impact will be to make Guangzhou more known abroad and gain national pride.

Glen: FICTION

I think that the two aformentioned events did a great job of opening up China to the rest of the world, and showing the nation as a new, modern place. I think that the Asian Games will get some of the sports media around, but it won’t get the kind of big name celebrities and politicians showing up like the Olympics or Expo did. I think that these games will be largely ignored by the Western media, since no European or North American countries will be present. Unless something goes wrong of course…

I totally jinxed it! 4 for 5.

6. You will attend some of the games.

Sara: FICTION

I am not into sports but it would also feel little bit strange to attend an event that is making Guangzhou go crazy in many ways. Asian Games makes the life here little bit more strict and more complicated. Also Chinese students are forced to attend the games and wave flags. I will be only observing the closest stadium across the road.

Glen: FACT

That is assuming that I can navigate the online ticketing system, which has not been easy so far. Living two hours away from Shanghai during the Expo was the closest I’ve been to any sort of international event, and I think it would be a bit of a waste to not take in the opportunity. Sure, I’m not excatly the biggest fan of synchronized diving or archery, but it is always fun to get in on the collective experience.

And so it ends, not with a bang but with a wimper. 4 for 6.

For Sara, I’m Glen, thanks for reading! We hope that you enjoy the Games.  As always, we welcome comments/concerns/criticisms.  Let us have it

So thank you China for…

• …economic stability. Things are not so great on the other side of the Pacific for a variety of reasons, and I am certainly thankful to have a good job, and comfortable lifestyle over here.
• …a new beginning. I’ve been very lucky this year to have a new job, in a new city. Sure it has new challenges, but also plenty of new rewards.
• …a China family. I feel like the people I’ve grown closest to around here have become more than friends to me, they are family. We are dealing with the same things together and have grown very close to one another. I was lucky to have two of my closest friends come to visit Guangzhou recently, it was great to show them my new life, and it let me see the city through fresh eyes again.
• …finally cooling off. I don’t know about your part of the PRC, but it was pretty darned hot from July to September. The weather seems to have cooled off a bit, I appreciate it, and so do the people who had to smell me.
• …having so much to see. As some of you may know, I love to travel. I foolishly thought that I had “done China” after a few months of back packing around. Now I know much better than that.
• …every single guest for Fact or Fiction. I have thoroughly enjoyed writing the monthly Fact or Fiction columns here.  Ryan, Steven, Ericka, Matt, Rebekah, Josh, Fred, Katherine, Travis, and Sascha have been a pleasure to interact with, and I know that they have all helped me improve my writing. I hope that people out there have enjoyed reading them as much as I enjoyed writing them.
• …putting the Asian Games in Guangzhou. The city has undergone a major renovation since I arrived in July. There are new Subway lines under construction, new stadiums being built, roads being paved, and plenty more. It’s great to see such positive change in a city that has a less than stellar reputation. Also, I’m pretty darned excited to go and see some events.
• …the “Bed Intruder Song”. Alright so this has nothing to do with China, but it’s pretty awesome. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, watch both of these videos in order.

How could you not be thankful for that little bid of modern-day poetry?

• …the wet market. Last night my girlfriend and I made a vegan-Canadian-Thanksgiving with green beans, tofu, and sweet potatoes. Best of all: it was dirt cheap. Gotta love inexpensive, fresh produce!
• …for all of your excentricities. Just when I think I have some handle on this zany country, it throws me a curve. Thanks for keeping me on my toes China, I may get angry sometimes but I do appreciate it.

So what did I miss?

My guest today is someone you may recognize from Chengdu Living, or China Travel, Sascha Matuszak. He is a West-side Laowai who spent most of his 10 years in China living in Sichuan. He is currently living and working in Shanghai with his wife and son. You can check out more of his stuff at www.saschamatuszak.com.

Sascha and I have something in common (other than being devilishly handsome), we both have recently moved from from smaller, 2nd Tier cities to larger 1st Tier ones (that being Chengdu to Shanghai for him, and Suzhou to Guangzhou for me, for those of you keeping score at home). So today we are going to talk about the perils and pitfalls of moving within China, and life in a Chinese metropolis compared to a “small town” of a few million people.  Join us today for Fact or Fiction X: Moving On Up!

1. It is easier to live in a 1st Tier City (Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen).

Glen: FACT

Absolutely! Maybe it’s just the fact that I am more used to life in this country, and I can mutter my way through a bit more of the language, but I find life in Guangzhou to be much easier than life was in Suzhou. There are far more people here who speak English, and a ton more activities in the city, both local and foreign. Of course Suzhou (and I assume other 2nd Tier Cities) are improving in this, it hardly matches the long history of development, and foreign interaction of the big guys.

Sascha: FICTION

I don’t think 1st tier has anything to do with it really. For me knowing my town, knowing where things are, having a mental map in my head that I can access at all times — these are the things that make living somewhere easy. Having said that, a 1st tier city like Shanghai has great Western food selections, whereas 2nd tier cities generally do not; Shanghai has an excellent subway system, cleaner streets and a more cosmopolitan feel than any 2nd tier city I have been to.

Not off to the most agreeable of starts, we’ll see where it goes from here…0 for 1.

2. It is harder to get to know “The Real China” in a 1st Tier City.

Glen: FICTION

I know that a lot of purists out there think that you need to live in a smaller city to get to know the culture, but I just don’t see it that way. Chinese culture is all around you, no matter how many people are around you. As I said before on here, I think that rampant development is the real China, and we are stuck with it for all of its pros and cons. Sure being in a city that has a lot of other laowais makes it easier to stay away from the Chinese stuff, but the opportunity to get immersed is very much there.

Sascha: FICTION

I agree. There is no such thing as a pristine cookie cutter suburb here in China — if anything, we have cookie cutter alleys selling counterfeit, low grade, delicious stuff and other “real Chinese” things. The real China is found in the people, not the spot.

Looks like they are right on track, “Real China” is all around us. 1 for 2.

3. The pollution is worse in a larger city.

Glen: FICTION

…or at least I think it will be. At the moment, Guangzhou is just finishing construction for the Asian Games, so there is a lot of dust in the air as a result. However, they have recently closed down a ton of factories, apparently for good. In my two months here so far I have seen a ton of blue skies (certainly more than I did in my first year in Suzhou), and I think that it is on the right track. Sure Guangzhou is hardly Vancouver or Seattle with respects to clean air, but it’s still not as bad as I thought it would be.

It gets better than this? -- Image by duffman34

Sascha:FICTION

I never would have thunk it, but yes, I totally agree. Shanghai’s blue skies crush the gray dismal armageddon-esque skies of Sichuan. Now, if we were to compare 6th tier towns with 1st tier cities….

12-14 million people are no match for a few factories apparently. 2 for 3. Let’s switch things up to see if they can continue on their harmonious path…

4. The culture shock of moving within China is worse than the shock of moving to China in the first place.

Sascha: FICTION

China is pretty much the same all over in terms of culture and society. Sure Shanghainese look down on provincials, adore foreigners, have the worst food in China and speak a weird dialect, but the basics are all the same.

Glen: FICTION

I’m in total agreement! Sure there are some large differences between Cantonese culture and other places in China, but it hardly compares to that feeling I first had getting off the plane from Canada. Now I understand a bit of the language, I know what is in some of the food, and the behaviors of the locals seems a little less alien to me. While I’m hardly an expert on anything, life is far less shocking now. Sure there are differences, but nothing like when you first get here.

Not a surprising answer all things considered. 3 for 4.

5. You feel more at home in your first city (Chengdu and Suzhou respectively) than in your new one.

Sascha: FACT

Absolutely. Chengdu is my home in China no question about that. I love the food and the dialect and although I said that the culture is basically the same all over (and I stand by that) the subtle differences between Chengdunese and Shanghainese that I detect help maintain my loyalty to the Provincials.

Glen: FICTION

To be honest, I don’t know if I ever felt at home in Suzhou. Sure I had a great job, and made some great friends, but it never quite felt like the city had “it” for me. Sure “it” may have came later with more time, but 2 years was hardly enough to develop a deep and meaningful relationship with a place. In my brief time here, I have been very excited about life in Guangzhou and I can see myself staying here for a long time…or maybe I’ll just jump to a bigger city in two years time to.

Back to the disagreeing ways. Is home where the heart is, or is your heart where your home is? 3 for 5.

6. SPECIAL NEW RULES FACT OR FICTION TOPIC: If everything else was equal (family/friends/jobs/money) list the top three Chinese cities you would like to call home.

Sascha: Tough decision, but I am a West-side laowai with peasant-slash-hippy sensibilities so I would say: outside of Dali, outside of Xichang, outside of Hotan.

Come on move to Dali, all the cool kids want to... - photo by Walter Parenteau

Glen: I always thought I was the country type, but I seem to be enjoying life as an urbanite, so I’ll go with:

Beijing: Full of history, full of culture, full of awesome!

Dali: For the country mouse inside of me. Simply perfect weather, very close to nature and history as well…and I’m not just saying it because Sascha said it!

Hong Kong: Sure it’s an SAR, but I’ll count it anyway. The city has it all: East and West, old and new, and everything in between. You’d have a hard time convincing me that it isn’t the greatest city on earth…

I have no idea how to grade this, but since they each agreed on Dali, I’ll count it for partial credit.  3.5 for 6.  Just enough to pass!

For Sascha, I’m Glen, thanks for reading!  We hope that you find a welcome home, wherever that is.  As always, we welcome comments/concerns/criticisms.  Let us have it

A little over a year ago I wrote a post detailing Pingyao, Xiahe, Tongren, Macau, Louyang, Emei Shan, Chongqing, Kashgar, Turpan, and Xishuangbanna as ten places to go to escape the Laowai tourist trail. Today, I’m going to add seven more locations to that list.

Rocky Shores and Sacred Temples of Putoshan

Putoshan, Zhejiang - Joining Emei Shan, Jiuhua Shan, and Wutai Shan as the four Holy Buddhist Mountains in thiscountry. Putoshan is not as tall or as striking as its peers, but it makes up for it in atmosphere. Located on an island just off the coast of Ningbo is this incredibly relaxing place. It is perfect to stroll around by the windy, rocky shores, and hike around some great temples. It reminded me a lot of Nova Scotia, but with more incense.

Glen Recommends – Head to Shanghai for two to three days, then take the bus or train to Hangzhou for another two, take the bus and ferry to Putoshan for the last three days to effectively unwind.

Shaolin Temple, Dengfeng, Henan – Sure you’re probably all “templed out” after spending a bit of time in China, but the birthplace of Kung Fu deserves a trip. It is set in the beautiful Songshan Mountain ranges, and full of live martial arts demonstrations. The coolest part is wandering through the area for all of the young monks training. Apparently there are martial arts classes you can take there as well.

Glen Recommends – Xi’an for a few days, bus/train to Luoyang for a few more, bus to Shaolin Temple, bus to Zhengzhou to fly or train back.

Kharakoram Pass, Xinjiang – I can not possibly recommend this enough.  The highway connecting Kashgar to Pakistan is simply the mos stunning bit of scenery I have ever seen. My biggest travel regret is not spending more of my time on this road. I would have loved to go all the way into Pakistan, but if that’s not possible, there is plenty to see on the way.

Glen Recommends - Two full days in Kashgar (one of which simply must be a Sunday), then at least two days on the Khartoum pass. I only made it as far as Karakul, but I wish I had continued at least to Tashkurgan, if not further.

798 Art District, Beijing – Have an extra day to kill in the Capital after you exhausted The Great Wall, The Forbidden

Now where did I put my shirt made of bricks? - 798 Beijing

City, and Tienanmen Square? Then this is the place for you!  The newly redone modern art area in Dashanzai district is well worth the trip. Several old factories have been redone and turned into a very trendy, avant-guard art space that you wouldn’t expect to see in a conservative place like China. There are a ton of very large, very strange exhibits that can showcase a side of contemporary China that you may not have known existed.

Glen Recommends- Set aside at least half a day of a trip to Beijing to head out here, you certainly won’t be disappointed.

INTERMISSION/DISCLAIMER: A reminder that this list was made by one person (me) and I only have limited time/money so there are a ton of places that I haven’t been to but are high on my to-go list and hope to have on the next list I make. That list includes (but is not limited to): Jiuzhaigoa, Xiamen, Fenghuang, Wutai Shan, Dunhuang, Kaifeng, and anywhere North of Beijing.

And obviously nowhere here is truly “Off the Beaten Path” thus the inclusion of the word “Slightly” in the title. It is a country with over a billion inhabitants, who all love to travel. You are bound to see people everywhere you go, unless you head way out into the wilderness, and I’m not quite brave enough to do that just yet.

And now back to our regularly scheduled blogging…

Victim of the Cultural Revolution - Xizhou, Yunnan

Xizhou, Yunnan – I know that the area around Dali is covered with more cool stuff than you could possibly fit into a week long holiday, but Xizhou is well worth your time. This cool old town hasn’t yet undergone the “cute little town” development that has struck other similar places around this country. This is especially noticeable that there are still broken statues and scratched out paintings from the Cultural Revolution everywhere.  It is easily doable as a day trip from Dali, but I bet it would be cool to stay there (note: I didn’t). There are tour guides in this city and in Dali that can take you around and into some of the great old houses that are around there.

Glen Recommends - Dali is worth at least 3 days of any holiday, which would include a jaunt up to Xizhou (it’s on the way to Shaping Market), from there go anywhere else in Yunnan, it’s all awesome.

Nanjing, Jiangsu – Sure it’s a big city that we’ve all heard of, but how many laowais actually go there? It seems to be neglected when people do the Shanghai-Suzhou-Hangzhou loop, which really is unfair. Obviously the must-visit attraction is the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall. It is an incredibly well done museum with a lot of information, it goes over the top a few times (the cheesy music in the mass grave comes to mind) but it will give you chills. After you’ve done that, there is still a great town to be explored, including the Sun Yat-sen mausoleum at Purple Mountain, and the old city walls.

Glen Recommends – Two to three days each in Shanghai, Suzhou, and Nanjing sounds like a fantastic week to me!

Alright so the path here is pretty well trodden...but it's still awesome!

Guangzhou, Guangdong – Alright, I’m biased, I’ll admit it. My new home away from home is a very cool place thatseems to be ignored as a tourist destination. Of course it has a bad reputation for being dirty, with rude people, but I think that is a thing of the past. The city is undergoing a massive renovation for the Asian Games (which should be done next week for the holiday), so the dirtiness should be no more. The original International Zone in Shamian Island is a walk to a Colonial Past, and Baiyun Mountain is a great way to be at one with nature in a city of 12 million people. Of course, the quality of the food may go without saying but I’ll say it anyway: the food here is FANTASTIC. While it often gets overshadowed by Hong Kong, make no mistake about it Guangzhou has style like Shanghai, and soul like Beijing.

Glen Recommends – Four Days in Hong Kong, take the train (only two hours) to Guangzhou for the next three days. Buy Glen a beer on night two.

….that worked right?

So I know that there are billions of locations that I missed, any more suggestions?

My guest today is fellow Lost Laowai blogger, Travis.  Travis recently turned heads, and opened up tear ducts with his post titled “There and Back“, a look at the journey back home for the summer and how things changed from when he first left.  Judging by the response to the post, I certainly wasn’t the only one who was touched by his descriptions of the complicated place that we call “home”.

In keeping with the themes of his most recent post, and the fact that the summer is the most likely time for many of us to head back to the land of our birth, our topic today is going to be one that is both simple and complicated, happy and sad: home.  Join us today for Fact or Fiction IX: Homecoming!

1. Homesickness is one of the biggest challenges of living in China.

Glen: FACT

Absolutely! As much as I want to explore new things and learn about a culture that’s very new to me, it’s hard not to long for home sometimes. Every now and then I just get a craving for some maple syrup or Tim Horton’s Coffee, or I ache to watch hockey with people who appreciate it (also: I realize that I am a walking Canadian stereotype). I find the lack of peers who understand the eccentricities of my own culture to be something that I find alienating at times.

Travis: FACT

Yes. No matter who you are, this will be a problem. You go into a place with customs you don’t understand, a language you cannot speak, an alien writing system, and you get to the point where you realize: I’m alone here. All alone.

But you overcome that. You have students to help you, you make friends, you maybe get a girlfriend and then you find yourself missing certain comforts. Breathable air. Sane westerners. And after awhile, you find new comforts. You find how exciting everything is, how novel such ordinary occurrences are to you.

Then you hate everything. You hate the guy who intercepts the taxi you just spent an hour waiting to flag down, you hate the people who reschedule your classes and don’t tell you until the night before, you don’t understand why they just cannot be normal, for Christ’s sake.

If you manage to overcome all that, then a day comes when you jaywalk unafraid and are okay with last-minute dinner invitations. Holy shit! I can tell the taxi driver where to go and chat with him on the way! That’s when you know everything’s going to be okay.

A nice, family style agreement from the get go.  1 for 1.

2. Your time in China has been very different than you originally imagined it to be.

Glen: FACT

I was fully expecting to spend two years teaching in Suzhou before moving to some other continent for a new adventure. Now I have moved to Guangzhou recently, but I did not expect myself to stay in China, or to find leaving Suzhou to be so difficult. I have set up far more roots than I had originally expected to.

Travis: FACT

Oh God yes. I was supposed to spend a year teaching before going home for grad school, but before even that, I was supposed to go teach in France through the ‘assistant d’anglais’ program. I was devastated when it didn’t work out, but look where I am now: married, with an opportunity to study Chinese that I never would have had otherwise, and I’m happy with what I do. With everything that’s happened, I cannot imagine what my life would be like if I had gone to France as planned.

As for staying here one year…well, what did I know? I was the same guy who was going to France, then grad school. For my wife and I, me going home was an issue from the get-go. What happened was that I found that I was happy here, happy with her, and I loved her too much just to go back home and do what I am “supposed” to do. I stayed on for another year, and another, and I do not regret it at all.

It’s been a growing experience. It has to be, or else, what use was it? Just to have something to do for a year or two?

Things may not have gone according to plan for these two, but this post is goign according to plan.  2 for 2.

3. The culture shock of going home is harder than the culture shock when you first arrived in China.

Glen: FACT

…but not a strong fact. I think that “Reverse Culture Shock” is an incredibly understated problem for expats. Of course mannerisms and customs that take place back home are familiar to you, and it is rarely that hard to get back into the swing of things. However, that being said, I feel like when I moved to China the newness excited me, and I hada large support group of people to help me with any difficulties or shocks. However, whenever I go home I don’t have that kind of support. Sure my family and friends are there for me, but they don’t seem to understand any sort of difficulties I experience with the unfamiliar familiarities of home.

Travis: FACT

You’re dead on about the lack of a support group to help overcome reverse culture shock. And once the novelty of going on Facebook to see so-and-so’s photos of her latest trip to the grocery store wore off, I found myself wondering why I even came back in the first place.

My family cares about me, they were curious about my time in China, and if I was having problems, I could talk to them about it…but at the same time, it would be hard for them to understand where I’m coming from.

What makes it hard, I think, is that all of you have changed in your time away from home, but they (understandably) think of you as the same person you were when you left.

Still good.  Let’s switch things up.  3 for 3.

4. You do not feel as close to your family anymore.

Travis: FACT

For me, yes. We talk off and on by telephone while another teacher spoke to his family everyday on Skype. It made me feel a little ashamed. I don’t keep in touch with them as much as I should. Sometimes I find it hard. I’m doing my own thing, they’re doing theirs, and so weeks will pass without us speaking. But in the end, we’re family. So the distance doesn’t mean as much.

I think it’s much worse when it comes to friends. They’ve started grad school, their careers. They have grudging responsibilities now. The common ground we had in college and high school has been shrinking for a long time now, to the point where there’s barely anything left. I think though, that it does say a lot about the strength of your friendship, if you can reconnect easily despite how far apart you’ve grown or if there’s nothing there but experiences two years old or older. Sometimes you just have to move on.

Glen: FACT

Now, don’t get me wrong, I love my family dearly, probably more now than I did when I lived in Canada.  But that being said, things felt a little…off this past summer.  I have spent a great deal of my life coming and going from the people I love.  In the past, I’ve felt like my arrival and departure were sort of…well events, big gatherings, big dinners, the whole shebang.

This time though it felt a bit more subtle and expected.  Of course my family drove to the airport to get me, my sisters were waiting at my dad’s house to see me, everything was great.  But there were no tears when I left, it was expected, another fact of life.  The consequences others had to deal with for my own decisions.  I know that they were sad to see me go (as I hope they know that I was sad to leave) but it felt natural this time.  I know it’s my fault for not calling or e-mailing as much as I should, or filling my summer with all sorts of different things, but I still felt a strange distance this time that I hadn’t felt in the past.

Wow, 4 for 4. We agree more than I do with my actual family!

5. You get homesick for China more than you do for “home”

Travis: FICTION

This is a difficult question to answer. Right now, I’d say ‘no’, based on my limited experience. While there were things I missed about China, I don’t think it compares to living in China for the first time.

Of course, I was only in the United States for a month, so this might change when I go back on a more long-term basis, but for now, I’m saying this: going to China is an adjustment while returning home is a readjustment. Difficult, but I don’t think anything close to the first year in China.

At least, I hope it isn’t…

Glen: FICTION

I have found that the last two summers I’ve been very “China Sick”, but not compared to how much I miss home.  I think a year ago, when I came back to China the first time, I would have answered “Fact”.  However, I think that it was more that I missed adventure and excitement.  But I suppose now that I’m a year wiser and a year more Chinafied, I miss the comfort and warmth of home.  China provides me with some of that, but like many things here, it’s an inferior copy.

5 for 5.  Can we have our first perfect showing?

6. You feel more at home in China than you do back “home”.

Travis: FACT

… for me, it is a fact. I left the States the summer after I graduated college. I left single, ten pounds lighter, decades younger. Fast forward to now, and you see that I simply have more of a home here than I do in America.

It is what you take with you. When I return Stateside next time, my wife will be with me. She is the crucial piece that makes China my ”home”. I see China as my home because we’re together here, we have a life here. It’s not that I prefer one place over another…I just like the life I have with her.

Glen: FICTION

…although it’s a mild fiction, if that helps.

While I’ve made a nice life for myself here, surrounded myself with wonderful people (including my wonderful girlfriend, of course), it’s still not quite the same as home.  To be honest though, I don’t want it to be.  While I crave the comforts of home at times, I still want to have a bit more excitement in my life.  In my current state of mind, if China ever becomes more home than home to me, then I think it will be time for me to go.

But that day doesn’t seem to be coming any time soon, thankfully.

Well Glen had to go and ruin it!  5 for 6.  Record is tied.

For Travis, I’m Glen, thanks for reading!  We hope that you find a welcome home, wherever that is.  As always, we welcome comments/concerns/criticisms.  Let us have it

My guest today is Katherine, better known around here as Baoru.  You can read her work on CNReviews where she posts a great deal about life in the Middle Kingdom.  Quite recently her informative posts on the Shanghai Expo have received a great deal of web traffic, and for obvious reasons.  She also writes a blog in Expotia, the Official Hotel Reservation Service Provider of Expo 2010.  If that wasn’t enough, depending on your perspective, she is either lucky or brave enough to be a volunteer at the World Expo in Shanghai.

Looking at my guests resume, the topic seems rather obvious to me.  We will be talking about the biggest event to currently be underway in China, the Shanghai Expo.  We will be tackling issues like lines, toilets, and our favourite pavilions, so join us for Fact or Fiction 8:  Hey Ho, Expo!

1.  The lines are far too long at the Shanghai Expo.

Glen: FICTION

This is by far the biggest complaint that I’ve heard so far from people about the Expo.  However, most of what I’ve noticed is that most of the griping is from people who haven’t even been to the Expo!  Most of the lines there really aren’t that bad.  Sure the German, Korean, and American Pavilions have terrifying long lines, but there are plenty of other ones that don’t have it that bad.  I think that you just need to be smart about which ones you choose and it won’t be too bad.

Katherine: FICTION

Everyone is really making exaggerated remarks on that one. [I am sometimes guilty of this too!] And the old ladies and grand pops bringing in the colorful, foldable chairs are not helping. I bet the distributor of those chairs is making a killing at this point in time! I may be biased because I get fast pass access to a few pavilions (due to my status as a volunteer), but I also waited for a friend while I was inside the Expo Garden already. And when I visit the Expo with someone else, I also need to line up. It was not that long a wait. Try the Urban Best Practices Area in Puxi and the corporate pavilions there also. Sometimes you do not even need to line up to get in.

They are off to a great start!  Looks like they are not in the mob of people that are upset with the mobs of people.  1 for 1.

2.  The UK Pavillion has the best design of the Pavilions.

Great Pavilion or Greatest Pavilion?

Glen: FACT

It’s certainly the weirdest one there! It looks like some sort of alien spore coming to take over the planet, and I for one like that in a building.  It is extra cool from the inside where you can see the light coming in through all of the plastic tubes.  I highly recommend it to anyone going to the Expo, lines or not.

Katherine: FICTION

The UK Pavilion looks cool definitely, but it is not the best in design for me. Even if it is a must-see pavilion. I agree with you though that it looks alien spore-ish. They got my vote for being innovative in design. But best design for me is the China Pavilion. It’s so Chinese and so unique at the same time. The inverted pyramid, strong red color, and grand staircase leading to the top got me.

Almost all the way in agreement, but not quite.  1 for 2.

3.  The Theme Pavilions are the best ones to visit.

Glen: FACT

I said this in my post a few months ago about the Expo and my mind certainly hasn’t changed since then.  I only went to the Urbanian Pavilion and the Pavilion of the Future, but they were both fantastic!  There is a lot of cool information in there presented in a very interesting fashion.  Sure you need to book times, but it’s so worth it and they are most certainly very different than all of the other pavilions that you find.

Katherine: FACT

If it were not for the fact that the Expo Garden is a bit far from our place, I could go back to the Theme Pavilions again and again and just stay there absorbing all the neat information inside. Everyone is talking about the country pavilions like how many pavilions they got into. Not so many are making it a point to check out the Theme Pavilions. There are 3 in Pudong side and 2 in Puxi, and all of them are worth the visit.

And we’re back on track…2 for 3.  Let’s switch it up to get more interesting.

4.  There are enough restaurants and toilets at the Expo.

Katherine: FACT.

Ask me again during the first few weeks of the Expo opening, and I would have given you a different answer. These days, I think everyone is able to use the washrooms without need of lining up (both squat and Western-style). Though the ayi’s have to work double time, because some people are just darn unhygienic when it comes to the toilets. But when you gotta go, you gotta go. Heh. About eating, avoid the known fast foods; and be adventurous when trying out what to eat! There are affordable eats inside the Expo Garden. ICS EXPO 360 host Steven Weathers shared his personal tips with CNReviews on international treats and coffee at the Expo.  You could check out his Expo videos in Expotia as well!

Glen: FACT

I never had huge problems going to the toilet, and surprisingly I rarely had to wait a long time for my girlfriend to use it!  The toilets are well spaced, clean, and plentiful, so you can’t really complain there.  Food can be a bit of a challenge, but if you are smart, then you either a) bought food, or b) ate in the pavilions.  There are little to no lines at the restaurants inside the pavilions, so if you time your visits around food then you’re fine.  Try the Sri Lanka and Nepal pavilions for the best food that I found.

Good, toilets are a mess thing to disagree over…3 for 4.

5. The Shanghai World Expo can be considered a success.

Katherine: FACT.

For me, the Shanghai World Expo is all about people understanding other cultures, especially for the local Chinese. If you cannot go out-of-the-country, the Expo is a good way to expose yourself to other cultures and traditions. And this is not just by visiting the different pavilions. I think interacting with the people involved is a good way to get glimpses also.

Glen: FACT

I completely agree with you on this one.  I think that this event is going a long way to building a bit of a world view for locals who have been closed off for a long time.  Sure it may be a little Disneyesque at points, but it certainly is better than nothing.  Also, the amount of money that is being brought in to the region is fantastic, and hopefully it will have a long term positive effect on tourism and international business in and around Shanghai.  Lastly, the physical improvements made to the city cannot be understated.  Sure, a year ago Shanghai looked like a war zone with all of the dust and cranes everywhere, but now it is sparkling and brand new.

Solid agreement here.  Anyone think that these two may be the same person?  4 for 5.

Oh crap…the rules have changed!

6.  SPECIAL NEW RULES FACT OR FICTION TOPIC:  List your 5 favourite Pavilions at the Expo.

Katherine:

1. China Pavilion
2. Urbanian Pavilion (one of the Theme Pavilions) – This pavilion follows the lives of 6 families from the different continents around the world. I like this, because you get to know and see for yourself how people live and work in their part of the world. And the exhibits are just awesome!
3. Philippine Pavilion – Ok, I am biased here; because I am from the Philippines. Hehe. But seriously, our country is not that known in other parts of the world; and I think the pavilion gave justice showing what you can see in the Philippines. There is traditional massage and different genres of music and entertainment to suit your taste. If you want to know more about the Philippines, our pavilion guides are very knowledgeable (and they are the friendliest there is!).
4. USA Pavilion – Not sure if many will agree with me here. But I like the USA Pavilion, because of the content (even if they are just movies). I am all for idealism and children as the hopes of the future, so the USA Pavilion gets my vote.
5. Shanghai Corporate Pavilion – You can control the lights showing on the facade of the pavilion through group effort by the people inside. The message is simple and clear and geared towards the development of Shanghai. I mentioned my weakness for idealism, so with this pavilion–just how idealistic can you get? They might be pulling our leg with the lights control thing, but it still looks cool.

Glen:
(Note:  I only included Pavilions that I have been to so several big ones like Japan, Germany, and China are omitted.  Apologies all)

1. Urbanian Pavilion -  When I try to explain it to people I can’t seem to do it justice.  Six Families from around the world are followed in all aspects of their lives and the result is pure awesome.
2. UK Pavilion -  As I said earlier, it has a great design from the outside, and it is borderline surreal from the inside.  Well worth the wait.
3. Australia Pavilion -  I love the layout and design of this one.  The movie at the end is so cool, even if it is all in Chinese (that is their national language, right?).  Maybe I give it extra credit because it was the first one that I went to and my two hilarious Aussie friends gave me the “guided tour”, but I still think that anyone would love it.
4. USA Pavilion – I’m with Katherine on this one.  I know a lot of people didn’t like it, but I thought it was great.  The second movie is a little boring, but the first and third are great.  I think that it captured the idealism of the American spirit.
5. Morocco Pavilion -  This one is very simple but very beautiful.  After seeing alien spores, giant apples, and other weird things, it is refreshing to see a pavilion built in traditional architecture for the country with simple facts and figures about it.  This pavilion serves as an actual exposition.

I have no idea how to judge this one, but they had a few in common so let’s count that as partial agreement.  4.5 for 6, making this the most harmonious edition ever!

For Katherine, I’m Glen, thanks for reading!  We hope that you all enjoy the Expo while you still can.  As always, we welcome comments/concerns/criticisms.  Let us have it

Over the last week or so, I’ve come up with a list of questions about this strange place called “North America” that I’m hoping some of you out there can answer, or provide other questions for your own reverse culture shock.

1. Has everything always been so expensive?
2. Has the air always been so clean?
3. Have people always spoken English so freaking fast?
4. Have we always given waiters so much in tips?
5. Have Canadians always apologized so bloody much?
6. Has tap water always been drinkable?
7. Have I always blended in with everyone else?
8. Has outside always smelled so good? (as opposed to pollution and urine)
9. Have people always understood what I say?
10. Has everything always been this easy?
11. Has the internet always been this fast?
12. Have I always been so glad to be home?

Any help would be much appreciated…

My guest today is Fred Dintenfass (aka @freddint aka fed-a-rama-lama-ding-dong) arrived in Beijing in 2006. Since then he’s been busy studying, editing, DJing, and eating all manner of things on sticks. Fred is the mastermind behind the world’s 4,375,463th most popular website — 10tonfunk. An infrequently updated repository of bad puns and worse product ideas. Despite being a vegetarian he is, as his Chinese friends and random strangers like to point out, overweight, and possibly pregnant.

Today, my esteemed guest and I are going to be talking about something near and dear to both of us, food.  More specifically we are going to be talking about our diets.  See we are both vegetarians living in the very omnivorous Middle Kingdom, and are going to talk about some of the issues that we face.  So join us for Fact or Fiction 7: The Veggie-Veggie-Shakes.

1.  China has great vegetarian food

Glen: FACT

Given that the life blood of our people, tofu, originated in this part of the world, it’s hard not to give it some big thumbs up.  Add in the fact that the fruit and vegetables are fresh, (mostly) organic, and inexpensive, and we have what should be a good recipe for meatless living.

Fred: FACT

Veggies are cheap and plentiful. Fresh tofu and other mock meat-type products are all over the place. Mercifully, tofu dogs are nowhere to be found. From Buddhist-inspired dishes with poetic, but completely unhelpful names, to classics like di sanxian, jian bing and the plates of boiled soybeans, the amount of vegetarian options greatly improves the odds of getting something good. Unless you go to TGI Fridays, you’re never forced to choose, for the millionth time, between the bland salad or the grilled cheese.

Looks like they share dietary practices and opinions!  1 for 1.

2.  It is easy to be a vegetarian in China

Glen: FICTION

There are all sorts of obstacles facing veggies in the Middle Kingdom, that I think some of our omnivorous friends don’t seem to understand.  The most obvious issue is of course language.  I mean, to order something in Chinese is challenging, but the specifications that are often needed makes it harder.  This is of course compounded by the fact that most menus are not at all straight forward.  How on earth am I supposed to know what “Grandmother Loves the Wild Dragon Sauce” is?

Even more annoying though is the culture going along with vegetarianism.  Chinese people tend to associate meat with wealth, and given that you’re foreign you must obviously be wealthy and must obviously want to eat meat…on everything.  Even if you can explain that you don’t want meat in Chinese, there is the simple fact that most people may not understand just why you want to do it.

Fred: FACT
It’s certainly much easier than in most of North America and large swaths of Europe — good luck eating vegetarian in either Georgia. The amount of vegetarian dishes on every menu is a huge help, and family-style dining means you’re not confined to one dish. Though Chinese certainly love to eat meat, non-meat dishes play a much larger role in the diet than in many other cultures. Though Chinese friends and acquaintances are often surprised to discover I’m a vegetarian, probably because of my size, they quickly get over it and are extremely considerate about making sure I get enough veggies to eat, often choosing to only order vegetarian when we eat together.

There is, however, an enormous caveat here, and that has to do with how strict of a vegetarian you are. I’ve relaxed significantly over the years, to the point where “real vegetarians” may question my veggie-ness. I don’t eat meat or fish, but I will, at this point, pick around meat and don’t mind if meat and non-meat are cooked together. (I like to consider myself a chunkatarian, an esoteric dietary practice (population one) which stems out of a great desire to eat Matzoh Ball soup.) If you’re strict, it is difficult to eat out — emphatic requests for no meat may produce dishes with bits of ham or pork. However, while being strict vegetarian isn’t easy here, it can definitely be done with a bit of ingenuity, a basic phrasebook, and practice.

Is that Beijing vs. Suzhou?  Canadian vs. American?  Or is Glen just plain lazier than Fred?  1 for 2.

3.  The Chinese Veggie Restaurants with Fake Meat Dishes are really strange

Kung Pao Vegge-Chicken and hamms, strange, delcious or both? - image by hack man

Glen: FACT

If any of you have never been to a traditional Chinese Vegetarian restaurant I’d advice you to stop reading this instant and go find one…I’ll wait.

Back?  Well good, wasn’t that weird! Chinese vegetarian restaurants are full of very traditional (meat based) dishes made out of tofu, gluten, or other strange things.  It is rather strange getting a mold of tofu shaped like a duck, or eating spare ribs which have a “bone” made out of taro on the inside.  It is rather odd, and not because the idea of eating meat looking things upsets me, but because I can’t possibly imagine all the struggle that must go into creating vegetarian pork tripe or Peking Duck.

Fred: FICTION

This depends entirely on where you go. Some of the more famous vegetarian restaurants are the most expensive and the most weird; I have absolutely no interest in having faux fat on my fake meat, and really don’t need the fake fish to be fishy. At least in Beijing, there are many smaller, simpler vegetarian restaurants that offer delicious, less literal, fake meat dishes. Unless you’re unable to eat meat and craving an approximation, it’s better to steer clear of the over-hyped, over the top veggie restaurants. Though there a lot of imitation meat dishes in China, they are a culture unto themselves, rather than the half-assed fake meat versions of meat intensive dishes you get in the West.

I guess they have different definitions of strange…1 for 3.  Let’s switch up the order and see if it’s any different.

4.  You don’t cook enough in China.

Oh no! That carrot looks like people! Now what are we going to eat? - Image by vegefoodie

Fred: FACT

This is certainly true for me. The cheapness, quickness, and availability of vegetarian food makes me lazy about cooking. However, I do try to take advantage of the fact that I can buy great fresh vegetables at roughly 11 places within a five minute walk of my house. I love being able to buy fresh blocks of tofu and mock meat that isn’t engineered out of creepy vegetable protein and non-biodegradable. If you are a strict vegetarian it’s definitely easier to cook a wider array of dishes, for much cheaper, than it is back home. Since when I do cook I inevitably spend a lot of time on it I like to make use of readily available ingredients, adding roasted sweet potatoes and steamed corn bought off the street to soups, or adding tofu to cold noodles.

Glen: FACT

I think that we’re one in the same on this one!  I tried to cook more this year, really I did, but I just got plain lazy about it, no other way around it.  Restaurant food is cheap, delicious, and readily available.  Add in the incredibly cheap delivery services that exist and my culinary side starts to suffer.  That being said, I do enjoy cooking and should take advantage of things more often.  I do make a mean vegan lasagna or tofu and avocado sandwich if anyone is interested.

United in laziness!  2 for 4.

5.  It is harder to immerse yourself in the local culture without eating meat.

Fred: FICTION

While Chinese may be surprised you don’t eat meat, they usually adapt pretty quickly. There are very few restaurants or street vendors that don’t have veggie options. The one time it can be a bit awkward is if you’re invited to someone’s house, but as in the West, a bit of advance notice solves this problem. Even without notice, your’e likely to have more options than in many places in North America. In midwest America meat is not only always on the menu, unless you’re eating at an “ethnic” restaurant (Indian, Thai, etc.) it’s often 90% of it. In Chinese cuisine, vegetables are often an equal part of the equation, not relegated to a perfunctory salad or garnish. This means even at a surprise dinner you’re likely to have plenty of viable options and not be the weirdo eating iceberg lettuce and chewing sadly on a sprig of parsley.

Glen: FICTION

Before I moved to China, people asked me constantly if I would give up my veganism because I would be “missing out on the local culture”. Now I have slipped back into the vegetarian zone, but that’s for convenience and health not for cultural reasons.  This is something that I quite frankly don’t really understand.  I mean culture should be the way that people interact with one another, and that is gained by sitting around the dinner table and talking, not from sharing the same food.  I think that implying that the interactions with the people is anywhere near as important as what goes in your mouth is borderline insulting.

We’re on a role here!  3 for 5.  Let’s see if they can end well…

6.  The open animal cruelty is one of the worst things about living in China.

Fred: FICTION

What open animal cruelty? While people here eat animals, and pieces of them, that we don’t in the West, I feel the reports of animal cruelty are often greatly exaggerated. This is not to say that animals are raised or slaughtered humanely, but living in Beijing I don’t see a lot of livestock. I have never seen a dog butchered, and wouldn’t like to, but I wouldn’t feel any differently about that than I would seeing a cow or pig killed. I’ve seen dog on sale, and on menus, but I don’t consider that animal cruelty. I find the inevitable hooha about eating or killing dogs to be laden with Western-bias. Even when stories come out of dogs being killed in rather horrible ways, like the recent post on ChinaSMACK — a site that specializes in controversy — I don’t see that as any worse than the factory farming and horrifying slaughterhouses that exist in the West. Not eating one animal doesn’t make you any better than someone that does. I also don’t believe that being a vegetarian is any great moral virtue — though I think there are a lot of great reasons, from the ethical to the environmental, to do it. I apologize for blathering on about this but I’ve completely had it with the outrage that emerges any time any sort of dog killing story emerges. I don’t think raising animals for food is inherently cruel, though I think in this day and age, in practice, it almost always is.

Glen: FICTION

I’m in total agreement on this one.  I mean, I have seen trucks full of pigs or chickens off to their final destination, but so what?  That kind of thing happens all the time in the West, we are just better at hiding it and that really doesn’t make it right.  I also don’t get the idea that dogs are somehow different than other animals, I mean pigs are actually smarter than dogs, and chickens are also very social animals if you let them be.  I do hate seeing animals in pens at restaurants, but similar things happen with lobsters in the West, and really it is better to come face to face with reality than to be so disconnected.

I, unlike Fred, do think that raising something for food is inherently cruel. I  think that the concept of “humane captivity and slaughter” is one of the greatest oxymora in our society.  I’m glad the Chinese at least don’t seem to have that concept.

And that does it!  We have once again tied the maximum at 4 for 6!

For Fred, I’m Glen, thanks a ton for reading!  As always, we welcome questions/comments/concerns from all!  Let us have it